Thomas Slee

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Page 7

February 2012



Engine was further assembled. All new gaskets, mounting hardware etc. where possible. The pilot bearing was difficult to get out. After trying several different approaches, I can recommend using a pilot bearing puller for this job.

Flywheel was lightly skimmed/resurfaced. To secure it in position, loctite and a bit of liquid gasket on the screws were used.

The 36mm nut at the front of the engine was tightened by blocking the flywheel with multiple chisels (as seen in the pictures), and by using a 'heavy-duty' torque wrench.

When resurfacing engine components, it's important to not forget doing both the lower and upper timing case as well. According to two engine builders I've asked, you can also (alternatively) use a fine (and flat) file to skim a bit of the aluminum and get everything equal.

I've used a stud puller (see pictures) and/or two nuts to remove studs from the cylinder head. In advance you can use WD-40 or similar. Oil pump was checked on the clearances, on play, scoring etc. and was found to be in very good condition.

The air tool with the green brush is something to use for removing old gaskets. Very useful, especially with old oil pan gasket.

I've tried to remove the 'bearing' bolt for the engine chain guides and by doing so ruined it beyond use. By using much heat ('blow torch'), vice grips, a chisel, and with a lot of patience + care I was able to remove it. Other pictures show how to align cilinder head (camshaft) and lower end.

I've found two approaches are documented for tightening the head bolts. One working with tighening by degrees. Another with 3 torque stages. I've used the latter. Some yellow plated engine parts where treated with a clearcoat to guarantee a longer lasting finish.

The exhaust manifolds were sandblasted and treated with a heat resistant coating. The manifolds contain 3x M6 bolts which are prone to break (after 30 years) when trying to remove. To solve this, I've tried to drill the broken bolts out and use a drill 'tap'. Worked perfectly in most cases.

Unfortunately the drill tap (HS steel) snapped off in one occassion. My solution is making your own helicoil, i.e: drilling and tapping with M10, inserting a M10 stud bolt, cutting it off to make it equal with the manifold, and very carefully drilling/tapping it to M6. I found it useful to use excessive amounts of oil ('cutting' oil) and WD-40. If not available engine oil will also do fine.





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